The History of Your Favorite Diamond Shapes
Deciding on the perfect shape is one of the most exciting parts of picking out a diamond. Everyone has their own taste and opinion. Perhaps you have a personal reason for preferring a certain cut, or maybe you just like the way it looks more than the rest. There’s certainly no wrong shape out there, and they’re all appealing in their own ways. From the elegance of a marquise-cut stone to the simplicity and sparkle of a diamond, there’s always something to love.
Have you ever been curious about how your favorite diamond cuts and shapes came to be, though? After all, someone dreamed them up and popularized them. If you’ve ever wondered about the history of certain cuts, keep reading to explore the stories behind a handful of the most popular diamond shapes.
History of the Oval Shape
Oval shaped diamonds have a rich history that dates back centuries. It was quite popular in signet rings, which were worn by royalty hundreds of years ago. Oval diamonds continued to crop up as time passed. Queen Victoria even had the exquisite Koh-i-Noor diamond cut into an oval. That diamond currently resides in London, set into Queen Elizabeth’s coronation crown.
While the oval cut has been around for hundreds of years, it was often associated with royalty or society’s most wealthy. In the 1950s, it made it to the masses. The oval cut we know and love today was offered in 1957 by diamond dealer Lazare Kaplan. It roared onto the scene as a graceful alternative to the ever-popular emerald cut. Now, oval shape engagement rings have been the most popular choice for several years in a row.
Famous Oval Shape Diamonds
The Koh-i-Noor diamond is arguably one of the most famous diamonds in history. While its exact origin is unknown, the giant stone does come with a rich history. Documented first in India, the stone was commissioned as part of the Peacock Throne in 1628 by Mughal ruler Shah Jahan. After some 200 years of fighting, the stone landed in the hands of Queen Victoria, in 1851, who had the Koh-i-Noor diamond cut into a 105 carat oval. After her, Queen Elizabeth had the same Koh-i-Noor diamond set into her coronation crown. The diamond will be on display at the Tower of London starting May 26, the same month as the coronation of King Charles III. The exhibit will explain the diamond’s highly contested past and how it came to be included in the British crown jewels.
TIM GRAHAM//GETTY IMAGES
Honorable mention goes to another one of the most famous oval rings in history—Princess Diana’s engagement ring from Prince Charles. In fact, her engagement ring caused a resurgence in popularity for the shape in the 1980s and 1990s. Like her late mother-in-law, Kate Middleton received the same oval-shaped engagement ring when Prince William proposed. While it’s not a diamond, this sapphire ring has become a popular style here at Lauren B!
History of the Radiant Cut
Radiant cut diamonds don’t have the same extended past as ovals, but they continue to rise in demand as the second most popular shape in 2021 and 2022. The cut was created in 1977 by Henry Grossbard, an experienced and masterful diamond cutter. The aim was to combine the best parts of an emerald cut and a round brilliant cut into an elegant, fiery diamond. He certainly accomplished it, and the radiant cut has enjoyed plenty of popularity in the decades following its creation.
Famous Radiant Cut Diamonds
Since the radiant cut hasn’t even been in existence for 50 years, there isn’t much history, but there are some “famous” radiant cut diamonds in the form of engagement rings: back during the height of Bennifer 1.0, Ben Affleck proposed to Jennifer Lopez with a 6.1 carat pink radiant cut diamond three-stone ring from Harry Winston.
History of the Emerald Cut
If you’re after a cut with a well-established history, look no further than a classic emerald cut diamond. Its origins date back to the 1500s, when it gained favor with stonecutters. Emerald cuts didn’t chip as easily and made for more appealing stones.
Emerald cut stones reached a new level of popularity centuries later in the 1920s. They were a staple of the Art Deco era and the shape worked its way into architecture, design, and, of course, jewelry. You’d be hard-pressed to find a time period more tied to the emerald cut.
Famous Emerald Cut Diamonds
Its popularity has continued in the years since, waxing and waning as other shapes go in and out of style. The most famous emerald cut engagement rings of all time belonged to Grace Kelly and Elizabeth Taylor: Prince Rainier III of Monaco proposed to Grace Kelly with a 10.48 carat emerald cut engagement ring in 1955 made by Cartier while Mike Todd proposed to Elizabeth Taylor with a 29.4 carat emerald cut engagement ring in 1957.
Courtesy of Cartier
History of the Pear Shape
Pear shape diamonds look deceptively modern but are actually the oldest cut on this list so far. The style dates all the way back to 1475 when Flemish diamond cutter and polisher Lodewyk van Bercken made the first pear shaped diamond. Lodewyk invented the Scaife, the diamond-polishing wheel, and used it to create symmetrical diamond cuts. Since 1475, the shape hasn’t really been altered; it has the same 58 facets as Van Bercken’s original design.
Unfortunately, pear shape diamonds were not particularly popular in the beginning. They were hard to make and lost a lot of the rough stone in the process, but the cut gained popularity later on. In fact, two of the most magnificent diamonds in the world are pear shapes.
Famous Pear Shape Diamonds
The Great Star of Africa, also known as the Cullinan I, is cut from the largest known diamond. It currently resides in London with the Crown Jewels.
Elizabeth Taylor was an extraordinary woman, so it should come as no surprise that she owned two of the most famous diamonds in history. Given to her by her fifth husband, Richard Burton, was the Taylor-Burton Diamond—an impressive 69.42 carat pear-shaped diamond, which Taylor often wore styled as a pendant.
Photo Courtesy of Natural Diamond Council
History of the Antique Cushion or Old Mine Cut
Antique cushion cuts were first created in the 1700s. The old mine cut was designed to draw attention as the stone was viewed under candlelight, so they have smaller tables and are a bit chunkier than modern brilliant cushion cuts. Although old mines are the oldest cut on this list, antique cushion cut engagement rings are exceedingly popular among Lauren B clients.
The name “old mine cut” is in reference to the diamond mines in Brazil and India. Prior to the 1800s, most diamonds were sourced from those two countries before African diamond mines took off. An old mine cut diamond meant the stone came from a Brazilian or Indian mine, although later the same term continued to be used for African-mined diamonds, too.
Famous Antique Cushion Cut Diamonds
The Hope Diamond, a 45.52 carat Fancy Dark Blue and arguably one of the most famous diamonds to exist, is an antique cushion cut diamond. Currently owned and on display at the Smithsonian, the Hope Diamond has a sordid history. What was once part of a much larger stone three times its current size is now said to be cursed.
Source: Smithsonian Museum
Does Your Diamond Have a Rich History?
The history of diamond shapes and origins is as storied and multi-faceted as the cuts themselves, but it’s interesting to keep in mind as you browse Lauren B’s collection of loose stones. Once you decide on the perfect diamond for yourself, we can customize your ring and set it any way you like. Carry a bit of history with you mixed with your personal touch!
