Guide To Fancy Shapes & Cuts
You’ve probably heard the term “fancy cut” or “fancy shape” when shopping for a diamond, but might not know what that means exactly. In the simplest terms possible, “fancy” shapes refer to everything that isn’t round.
Oval Shapes
If you like the look of a round brilliant diamond but want something more elongated, different shape, an oval may be your ideal choice. Oval diamonds can also create the illusion of greater carat weight.
Ovals are great at elongating the finger and often appear larger than their carat weight. An oval diamond is also more durable for everyday wear since there are no sharp edges, making it a perfect option for a lasting ring.
4.01 carat Oval Diamond Engagement Ring
Cushion Cuts
Cushion cut diamonds date back to the diamond cutting technique itself. Cushion cut diamonds are known for their rectangular or square shape with soft, rounded edges giving them their distinct pillow-like appearance. Cushions and round brilliant diamonds are actually sister shapes with an emphasis on brilliance and sparkle.
As a brilliant cut, cushion cuts have around 58 facets. Some advantages of a cushion cut is its attractive, vintage look plus no sharp edges to catch on clothing.
3 carat Cushion Cut Diamond Signature Wrap Solitaire Ring
Radiant Cuts
A radiant cut diamond combines the brilliances of a round with the elongated rectangular shape of the emerald cut. With 70 facets, it exudes extraordinary brilliance and fire.
The radiant is another great option for those who are looking for a center stone that elongates the finger. The juxtaposition of the radiant’s rectangular shape with its brilliant faceting makes for a truly beautiful center stone.
3.54 carat Radiant Cut Lab Diamond Lotus Rose Gold Ring
Emerald Cuts
Elegant and sophisticated, the emerald cut is one of only two cuts with step-cut faceting. Similar to a hall of mirrors, an emerald cut’s faceting consists of parallel, symmetrical clean lines.
Similar to a radiant cut, emerald cuts are rectangular in shape and are great at elongating the finger. Since they are not brilliant cuts, they do not reflect as much light as their brilliant counterparts. However, they are extraordinarily striking, nonetheless.
8.18 Carat Emerald Cut Lab Diamond Solitaire Ring
Pear Shapes
Pear shapes, also sometimes referred to as teardrops, are essentially ovals with a single pointed tip. No two pear shapes are cut the same so if you’re looking for something unique, a pear is the fancy cut for you.
Pears provide optimal finger coverage and will appear larger than most any other shapes because of their natural tapering effect. While there’s no wrong way to wear your pear shaped diamond, positioning it north-south so the point faces your fingertip can make the digit appear slender and longer.
2.51 carat Pear Shape Diamond Pave Engagement Ring
Princess Cuts
The princess cut is a modern cut with sharp corners and was crafted to maximize the brilliance of the diamond, combining the sparkle of a round brilliant cut with a contemporary, angular shape. The hallmark of this cut lies in its precise faceting, often revealing chevrons or X patterns on the diamond’s surface.
Characterized by their distinct, perfect square shape, princess cuts were very popular in the 80s and 90s, making a short resurgence in popularity in the early 2000s.
3.14 carat Princess Cut Lab Diamond Two-Tone Signature Wrap Ring
Asscher Cut
The Asscher cut is described as a square version of the emerald cut. It features noticeable corners that make it resemble an octagon, despite its square shape. Additional step facets create more depth and scintillation, unlike emerald cuts.
The Asscher cut is one of the most striking cuts and often favored over emerald cuts for being just a hair more brilliant due to its extra faceting.
6.51 carat Asscher Cut Lab Diamond Three Stone Engagement Ring
Marquise Cut
Marquise cuts are essentially ovals with pointed tips. The marquise cut dates to the 1700s and the French royal house. King Louis XV asked a jeweler to create a cut that evoked his lover’s lips.
Marquise cuts are unique due to their slim, graceful appearance. Because of their elongated shape, they lengthen and slim the finger. Generally speaking, you want the stone to be roughly twice as long as it is wide, with the ideal ratio for a marquise cut being 1.75 to 2.25 of its width. If it’s too short, you lose the elegance of the cut.
3.02 carat Marquise Lab Diamond Solitaire Engagement Ring
Heart Shape
The heart shape is one of the most difficult and expensive cuts to produce. Heart shaped diamonds are relatively new on the market because it took several advancements in sophisticated computer technology to be able cut this shape. This fancy shape is actually just a pear shape with a cleft at the top.
These diamonds are naturally heavy set and must be cut with extreme accuracy to ensure maximum brilliance. More so than with other cuts, hearts shaped diamonds should always be seen in person to make sure the proportions and overall shape are well designed.
3.24 carat Heart Shape Lab Diamond Invisible Gallery™ Ring
Fancy Shapes vs. Rounds
Unlike rounds, fancy shaped diamonds only receive polish and symmetry grades from the GIA; round diamonds receive polish and symmetry grades in addition to a cut grade. The best polish and symmetry grade you can get for a fancy shape is “Excellent.”
7.20 Carat Round Lab Diamond Three Row Band Ring
Round Brilliant: 7.2 carats | E color | VVS2 clarity | GIA graded
Excellent Cut, Polish, & Symmetry
Benefit of Fancy Cut Diamonds
Fancy cut diamonds are less expensive than round diamonds because they are less popular overall and they produce less diamond waste. Round brilliant diamonds are also the most brilliant cut which is why they are more expensive.
Elongated fancy cuts such as ovals, marquise cuts, and pear shape, can look larger than other diamond shapes of the same carat weight due to their large surface area. They also tend to have a lengthening effect on the wearer’s finger.
Are You Choosing a Fancy Shape?
Typically, fancy cut diamonds have a unique appearance and they can appear larger than round diamonds of the same carat weight. At Lauren B, we carry a large selection of both natural and lab-grown diamonds and are ready to help you choose the perfect shape and cut for you! For more inspiration, you can check out our Instagram and Pinterest!
